Jelly Day at Harewood
June 7th 2009
A Victorian macedoine mould. The inner liner allowed a hollow to be created in the jelly which could be carefully filled with an arrangement of fruit.
Steel engravings of Belgrave mould and lining. Note the little pipes in each individual liner, which allow air to enter the cavities in the jelly as the liner is removed.
An oval Belgrave mould with its pewter lining. Find out more.
Prince of Wales Jelly
From Banquet to Dessert
+44 (0)1904 655 543
In the Tudor and Stuart periods the word ‘banquet’ meant the final part of the meal and consisted of hugely expensive novelties made from sugar. This exhibition charts the
Ices and Frozen Desserts
Wednesday 8th April 2009
Spend a day with Ivan Day at Food & Company.in the beautiful English Lake District, learning to make ices, bombes and frozen puddings of a quality well beyond the capabilities of a modern Michelin three-star chef. And all withot the aid of freezers and electricity. Using original ancient equipment and moulds, we will make a number of remarkable frozen creations from the 17th, 18th and 19th century to a standard that you will not believe is possible. When, for instance, were you last served an ice in a restaurant like those depicted here? The English ice cream has seen better days!. You will really learn to make these beautiful and impressive delights from the past.And what's more, you will enjoy eating them!
Large fancy ices were garnished with smaller moulded ices in the form of fruits and other novelty items, a tradition that goes back to the pezzi duri (hard pieces) of late seventeenth century Naples. Learn how these remarkable period ice creams and water ices were made using the technology of the past. They not only look good, but taste really extraordinay.
COOKING IN EUROPE 1650-1850
A new book by Ivan Day to be published by the Greenwood Press in November 2008. £25.95 ($45.00).
Recipes include examples from France, Italy, England, Austria, Germany, Holland, Portugal, Spain, and Scotland, from the simple Salad of Pomegranate from La Varenne's 1651 cookery book to the elaborate 1833 Boar's Head in Galantine by Carême. This unique book is a culinary treasure trove to complement all European History library collections.
2008 ended with Ivan contributing a number of food history features to BBC Radio Four. In a short slot on Woman's Hour on Boxing Day, he discussed condiments, not only grinding mustard with a cannon ball, but making a number of spectacular pickles and relishes. A number of listeners have been in touch requesting a recipe for the Peach Pickle that Ivan said was an excellent accompaniment to left-over turkey. The recipe is from Richard Brigg's The English Art of Cookery (3rd edition London: 1794) and is reproduced on the right below the image of the cannon ball.
The title-page of Richard Brigg's much negelected book on English food and cookery. His pickled peach recipe also appeared in a number of other cookery books from this period. Briggs probably lifted it from Mrs Charlotte Mason's The Lady' Assistant (London: 1773). Mrs Mason calls the recipe Mango of Peaches. Unlike Briggs, she colours her peaches pale red with a little cochineal put in the pickle mix. She tells us that white plums were also prepared in this way.
Mrs Mason's book, one of the major cookery texts of the second half of the eighteenth century will soon be available to the modern reader in a new edition which will have an introduction by Ivan Day. It is being published by Equinox Publishing in the Southover Press Historic Cookery and Housekeeping series in December 2009.
A Taste of Christmas Past
The Christmas Food course was attended by Sheila Dillon and was the subject of a recent BBC Radio 4 The Food Programme. If you did not hear this programme, you can listen again by going to the following link:
Sheila was only able to attend the first day of the course and although she managed to learn to make Plum Pottage, Cumberland Hackin, Twelfth Cake, Punch-Royal and Garnished Brawn, she missed out on the following day's activities. These included making a Yorkshire Christmas Pie (weight 36 lbs), Mince Pyes, Spit Roast Goose and Moulded Gingerbread.
John Mollard's 1802 Twelfth Cake baked in a papered wooden hoop or garth.
A "collar" of Christmas brawn in its linen wraps ready to be boiled in a souse of wine, water vinegar and spices. The cloth stopped the meat from falling to pieces.The brawn was sliced and garnished with coloured jellies, carved oranges and gold leaf.
A garnished brawn
A Grand Salad - one of the dishes served on Christmas day listed in Robert May's bill of fare of 1660.
Above: one of the dishes served for lunch on the Taste of Christmas Past course - a fricdandeau of veal with its hatelet garnishes. Opposite right: the fricandeau being larded with bacon fat.
The other new course is a two day session of making jellies, flummery, moulded cakes and a few elaborate ice creams.
A happy group of jelly makers with the results of their labours. One of the participants on this course was the amazing events organiser and designer Fiona Leahy, who has posted a blog about the course on her website - Fiony Leahy's Website
A shoal of gilded flummery fish made with 1760s Staffordshire salt glazed stoneware moulds.
A large jelly in the form of the Prince of Wales Feathers. This one is Victorian and commemorates Edward, the eldest son of Queen Victoria, who became King Edward VII.
Another Prince of Wales Feathers jelly, but this time from the late Georgian period. This one commerorates Prince George who became George IV.
The Frost Fair
Start the New Year by listening to this lovely programme produced by Beaty Rubens, which goes out on Radio 4 at 11.00 am on New Years Day. It examines the historic Frost Fairs held on the Thames on those rare occasions when the river froze solid. It is presented by Francine Stock The programme features contributions from Nobel Laureate Seamus Heaney; former Children's Laureate Michael Morpurgo; writer Francis Spufford; New Scientist editor Roger Highfield; meteorologist Ian Currie; museum curator Hazel Forsyth; culinary historian Ivan Day; internationally acclaimed Norwegian ice-musician Terje Isungset; and actor Adam Godley. Ivan fed everybody with mutton pies and Frost Fair gingerbreads. Below: some mutton and mince pies straight from the oven..
Above: detail of gingerbread mould in the form of a sledge.
Right A selection of gingerbreads made by Ivan for the Frost Fair. Note the boys playing with the sledgemade from the mould illustrated above and the London drayman with his barrels of beer. Ivan also discusses some of the beverages that were enjoyed on the ice, including purl and mum. He makes hot wine chocolate from William Salmon's 1710 recipe.
The music for the programme is provided by the remarkable Tamsin Lewis and Passamezzo.
EVENTS DIARY AND NEWS 20010/11
A High Victorian Dessert at Harewood
The Banquet - Fairfax House, York
1st March - 30th August 2009
A Day with Ivan Day at Food & Company
Ices and Frozen Desserts
To find out more on this and their other courses go to the Food & Company website.
COOKING IN EUROPE 1650-1850
A new book by Ivan Day
Some illustrations of pastries from Cookery in Europe 1650-1850
Woman's Hour Condiments Feature
New Historic Food Courses for 2009
The Frost Fair - BBC Radio - 4 New Years Day